The Shanghainese dish called cong you ban mian combines wheat noodles with fried scallions, the flavorful oil they fry in and salty-savory soy sauce. A lot of deep, bold flavor is wrested from a handful of ingredients for a filling and satisfying weeknight-friendly meal. In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we cut the scallions into thin strips before cooking, allowing them to crisp evenly and quickly while flavoring the cooking oil.